Kimberley’s Sept - Oct 07

The big trip had finally arrived. I’d been waiting to do this trip for years. The trip would start in Brisbane, drive to Darwin to pick up an old college friend then head to the Kimberley’s for a couple of weeks camping. Then back to Darwin to drop my friend off and then back to Brisbane.

Vehicle and equipment

• Toyota Prado 2003 turbo diesel manual.
• Overlander off-road camper trailer from Modcon campers in Brisbane.
• 3x 4kg gas bottles.
• 40 litre Engel fridge/freezer.
• 65 litre Evacool icebox.
• 4 jerry cans. 3 for fuel and 1 for water. Camper trailer has an 85 litre water tank.
• 4 large plastic tubs for food and cooking equipment. 3 tubs in the trailer & one in the car.
• Fold up table and chairs.
• 2 tarps. 1 Large and 1 small.
• Spares; radiator hoses, fanbelts, fuses, grease gun, oil (engine, steering & break).
• Recovery gear; Snatch straps, D shackles, high lift jack, tools/spanners, axe, shovel tyre pump and gauge etc.
• Tyres. Car has Cooper Discover ATR on steel rims. Trailer has the original Dunlop Grandtrek on steel rims.
• Spare tyres; Rims on camper trailer match the car.
• Portable radio/CD player and line-in for connecting MP3 players.
• 2x MP3 players, car chargers and FM radio transmitters.
• Portable GPS unit with cigarette lighter plug.
• UHF radio fitted in car
• Dual battery system fitted in car.
• After marked suspension kit and snorkel fitted to car. Suspension kit lifted the car approx 2 inches from standard.
• Bull bar and spot lights.
• First aid kits.
• Maps and guide books. Hema maps produce some good maps and guide books of the Kimberley’s. Ron & Viv Moon, produce an excellent Kimberley guide book. Also picked up local maps and information from tourist information centres which tend to be a bit more up to date.

Mobile phone and radio reception

We had GSM mobile phones but they only worked in the major towns. Once you’re a few miles out of town there is no signal. Telstra NextG reception was available in more towns then GSM. Don’t know about Optus or other mobile phone carriers.

Same for radio transmissions. Even ABC national was only available 20 – 30 km from towns. Thanks goodness we had MP3 players.

Brisbane to Darwin

Departed Brisbane with only a short run to Miles to catch up with some family. Then the big days started. I had travelled the outback of QLD and NT before, so I just drive to Darwin as quickly as I could, stopping the night only at Kynuna in QLD then at Elliott in NT before arriving in Darwin late in the afternoon.

Road kill was very high from Morven in western QLD to Barcaldine. There were between 1 – 3 dead Kangaroos between each white guide post on the side of the road. I wouldn’t like to drive along here at night, or you would have to follow a road train and let them clear the road for you.

The car had travelled well towing the camper trailer. The trailer was still light with no water in the tank and empty jerry cans etc. So I could travel at around 110 without guzzling too much fuel.

Darwin’s Mindil beach and markets on Thursday nights during the dry season are always a real treat. It’s one of those things you just have to do regardless of the number of times you have visited Darwin.

QLD Outback wild flowers

Road Trains

Out west and in the north these trucks are the life line of the country. They used to be only 3 trailers long. Now some can be 4 trailers long. Care needs to be taken if overtaking these huge long trucks on roads which are in need of upgrades. It’s best to wait for an overtaking lane or a long straight stretch of road. The last trailer can jump around several feet even on good roads. If the truck wants to overtake you, then let him through. Having a UHF radio helps as you can call the truckie and sometimes the truckie will call you when to overtake.

Darwin to Kununurra

In Darwin we ordered meat from the local butcher and had it cryovaced into meal portions. Purchase tined, dried and other processed packaged food, and of course plenty of amber fluid and a few other bottles to sit round the camp fire with at night. Fresh food would have to wait until Kununurra. This is because WA runs a quarantine check point at the border and no fresh food can be taken into WA.

We departed Darwin and headed to Katherine to catch up with friends before heading to Kununurra.

On the road from Katherine to Kununurra you cross Victoria River and Gregory national park. Vic River is one of the larger rivers in NT with water in it all year round. There were great views of the river and mountain range. We didn’t fish in the river but there are tour guides available to take you Barra fishing and site seeing. Helicopter rides are also available.

At WA/NT border all vehicles are directed into a quarantine check point for fruit, vegetables, bees/honey, cane toads and now horse flu.

Victoria River NT

Kununurra, Wyndham & Lake Argyle

We camped at the caravan park next to the lake in Kununurra. Facilities were good and a reasonable price.

Places to see and things to do

• Fishing, fresh and salt.
• Cruises on Ord River and lake.
• Flights over Lake Argyle, Bungle Bungle, etc.
• Zebra rocks. The only place in the world where these rocks are found.
• Hidden valley (Mirima) national park.
• Ord River; Ord river dam and Lake Argyle.
• Ivanhoe river crossing.
• Hoochery Rum/Whisky distillery.
• Diamonds.
• Black rock falls, Middle springs.
• Parry creek & Parry lagoons national park.
• Marlgu billabong.
• The Grotto.
• Five rivers lookout at Wyndham. Really great spot to watch a sunset.
• Croc farm at Wyndham.

We decide to go to Broome via the sealed road and then back to Kununurra via the Gibb River road.

5 rivers look out Wyndham

Black Cockatoo

Crimson (Blood) finch – female

Crimson (Blood) finch - male

Bowerbird nest

Croc swimming outside our camp site at Kununurra

Grotto gorge on the road to Wyndham

Ivanhoe causeway at Kununurra

Lake Argyle

Ord river dam

Parry lagoon on back road to Wyndham

Hidden valley (Mirima) NP Kununurra

Rock wallaby watching us. You can only just see his head and ears looking over the rock

One lane bridges and road works

The highways may be two lanes (one each way) but many of the bridges are only one lane. All traffic has to give way to the vehicle on the bridge. Once again a UHF radio helps. Most road trains call over the radio when they are approaching the one lane bridge.

Road work crews also used the same UHF channel when working on the road.

Bungle Bungle national park

The road from Kununurra to the Bungle Bungle turn off is a really good sealed road. However the dirt track from the highway to the Bungles is really rough. The track is approx 50km long. However it will take between 2 - 3 hours to drive the track one way.

No caravans are allowed on the track and rangers have the authority to send caravans back! There are plenty of signs at the beginning of the track informing you no caravans are allowed in. The signs say caravans will not survive the trip. The many steep dips are probably the reason why. These dips are very steep. At times my car was climbing up the other side while my camper trailer was still going down the first side! One or two of the river/creek crossings are very rocky and care needs to be taken when negotiating the crossing as I found out on the way out. On one of the river crossings a rock somehow hit the tow hitch coupling of the trailer and bent part of the manual break system. Not bad, but still needed some attention.

Camping at the Bungles is very basic. You have to be self sufficient in every way, food, water, fuel, LPG gas etc. The camp grounds only have drop pit toilets and tape water which needs to be boiled before use. Open fires are allowed at certain times of the year and while we were there fire wood was provided. This made for really great nights sitting around a camp fire under the stairs having a cold beer.

Temperatures varied at the Bungles. Day time temperatures were 36 – 38 degrees while at night it dropped to 12 – 14 degrees.

Gorge walks, sunrise/sunsets and helicopter flights over the Bungles were just magic. I suggest doing the gorge walks first and the helicopter flight last. They take the doors off the helicopters so you can take better pictures. This does have a down side though. With no doors on the helicopter you cannot take any loose with you. This includes, hat, sunnies, camera cases (cameras are OK), camera lens caps etc in case they are blown around the cabin. The early morning helicopter flight just blew us away with the spectacular beauty of the Bungles.

Road signs on the Bungle Bungle road

Bustard bird

Sunset on the western side of the Bungles

Mini palm gorge

Echidna gorge

Creek bed walking out of Echidna gorge

Cathedral gorge

Top of the bungles

Lightning hit the gorge. White spot

Classic Bungles

Halls Creek, old Halls creek, Palm springs, Sawpit gorge & Wolfe creek crater

We camped at the caravan park in Halls creek. It was clean and tidy and close to the main pub which was just around the corner. This was important for us as Aust was playing Wales in the Rugby world cup that night.

At Halls creek we went to see the “China” wall which a geological dike wall which cuts through the hills. There wasn’t much to see at old Halls creek, just some street signs. The old mud brick post office is all that remains.

Wolfe creek crater is on the Tanami road just south of Halls creek. The Tanami road from Halls creek turn off to the Wolfe creek crater turn off was easy and was in really good condition. It seems the mines are keeping the road in good nic.

The track from the Tanami road to Wolfe creek crater is only 20km. However it took over an hour to drive this road. It was badly corrugated. About 2/3rds the way along the track you go past some old abandoned station buildings on the left there is another track running next to fence. This fence track was better than the main track.

China wall Halls Creek

Wolfe creek crater

Fitzroy Crossing and Geikie gorge NP

We camped at the “Lodge” caravan park a few miles east of Fitzroy crossing. Nice grassed camping grounds and good amenities. The fuel was cheaper here than in town too.

There are two boating tours for Geikie gorge. One is run by the nation parks office and the other is run by the local indigenous community. The NP tour is only about an hour long and takes you in open boats up and down the gorge. The indigenous community tour is in smaller boats and also explains some of the cultural importance of various sites along the river.

Hats, water and sun screen cream are a real must when sitting in an open boat for hour or so, even early in the morning.

Mary pool. This Corella just flew down and started to attack my shoe. It stopped attacking when we started to feed it.

Geikie gorge

Broome

On the way from Fitzroy crossing to Broome we past a bloke riding a push bike near Willare bridge roadhouse heading towards the Derby/Fitzroy crossing intersection. The outside temperature was 43 degrees and road trains with 3 and 4 trailers were on the road. I just can’t understand the people who undertake such journeys.

We camped at Roebuck bay caravan park, which was nice and central to most things in Broome.

Broome has the second biggest tides in the southern hemisphere. Broome’s tides can be up to 12 meters from high to low tide. Derby has the biggest tides which can reach 14 meters. I watched some fisherman drive down the boat ramp at “Town beach” out across the sand flats for about 300 meters. Dragged the boat off the trailer onto the sand and loaded all of their gear into the boat. The boat was still approx 50 meters short of the water. The driver drove the car back to the car park while the other fishermen waited with the boat. When the driver returned they all just climbed into the boat and waited for the tide to come in! Now that puts w new spin on how to launch a boat.

The Indian Ocean colour around Broome is just beautiful. The colours close into shore starts out very light and pale then changing to darker aqua greens and blues. The colour change is apparently because of the lime washed out of the ancient limestone mountain ranges in the Kimberley’s into the sea and the big tides stirring up the sediment.

Broome is very multicultural. The Japanese have a strong presence because of the pearling industry. The Chinese and many other Asian countries also have a lot of history and cultural presence in Broome. Brooms also have WWII significance.

While in Broome we were lucky enough to see the Waifs at the Mangrove resort. Open air concert over looking Roebuck bay, really good.

Lots to see and do around Broome;

• Museums.
• The longest running open air cinema.
• Food.
• Micro brewery.
• Fishing.
• Beaches.
• Camel rides.
• Sunset tours.
• Cable beach.
• Stairway to the moon.
• Flights to Bungles, Cape Leveque and Mitchell falls.
• Coral reefs
• Whale sharks.
• Boat cruises.
• Malcolm Douglas croc farm and wild life park.
• Diamonds, and
• Pearls & pearl tours.

During the winter months Broome has a phenomenon called “staircase to the moon”, where the full moon rises over the sand flats at low tide giving the impression there are stairs to the moon. Broome market at “Town beach” is on at the same time as staircase to the moon.

Broome

Town beach - Broome

Gantheaume point - Broome

Looking back to Cable beach - Broome

Derby

Just outside of Derby is the prison tree (boab) and cattle watering trough. The cattle trough could water 500 head of cattle in a single session without running dry.

Derby has the biggest tides in the southern hemisphere so we were told. Derby is located in inlet. The water colour is completely different to Broome, because of big tides and in an inlet, mud is stirred up making the water look very muddy. You can walk around the jetty and even drive your car around it if no ships are docked.

Derby prison tree (Boab)

Derby stock route water trough

New machine for one of the mines

Gibb River road to Kununurra

Driving on corrugations

When driving on bad corrugations you have two options. The first is to drive very slowly so you don’t shake your car to bits. The draw back with this approach is that at the end of the day you haven’t travelled very far. The second approach is to drive the car fast so you just skip or plane over the top of the corrugations. The manager at Drysdale station put it in very plain and straight terms. You’re either driving at 5kms/hour or at 70kms/hour. Anything in between and you shake your car to bits.

Driving at 70 – 80 km/hour gets you places and at around this speed you skip over the top of the corrugations so your car doesn’t shake too badly. An additional tip is to also let your tyres down. Depending on your car, tyres and load you can let your tyres down to 22 – 28psi. The Manager at Drysdale says he runs at 20psi with the strongest sidewall tyres he can find. I was running my tyres at 28psi. Letting your tyres down for corrugations helps to cushion the car against the corrugations.

Driving at speed where you are skipping over the top of corrugations requires a lot of concentration and care. This is because your wheels are not always in contact with the ground. The corrugations are usually covered in small stones as well which act like marbles. The combination of the two makes it very easy to lose control of your car.

Bull dust

If you have never seen bull dust just think of getting a bucket of talcum powder standing in a small room with a large fan and tossing the bucket into the air. All visibility is gone and the dust gets into everything.

When I hit the bull dust along the Kalumburu road my trailer just disappeared and even the spare tyre which sits on the back door of the Prado could not be seen. It was amazing, the front of the car was in the clear but from the back tyres nothing could be seen.

It is very difficult to spot bull dust unless you see someone hit it first. Bull dust can be holes just a few feet wide or in long stretches. Bull dust can also hide deep holes.

Windjana gorge and Tunnel creek NP’s

Good camping grounds. Running showers and camp fires allowed. Must bring your own firewood.

The river was full of fresh water crocs. We didn’t go for a swim.

Windjana gorge

Tunnel Creek

Tunnel creek is just down the road from Windjana gorge. You walk through the mountain range following the creek. You need to take a torch and be prepared to get wet to about knee high.

Silent grove and Bell gorge

On the way into Silent creek one of my IPF spotlight protectors came sailing over the bull bar bounced on the bonnet then hit the windscreen and disappeared. We stopped the car and ran back to see if we could find it. Luck was with us and we found the spotlight protector intact. After clipping it back on to the spotlight we continued to the camp ground.

Bell gorge has a spectacular waterfall with a wonderful plunge pool to swim in.

Walking back from Bell gorge we saw our first snake of the trip a small brown snake.

On heading out of Silent creek we lost both IPF spot light covers. Never saw them come off.

Bell gorge

Bell waterfall

Imintji roadhouse

Only sell diesel fuel. When we approached the roadhouse it was an amazing site, QLD state of origin flags and Melbourne storm flags everywhere. The managers had their son playing in the Melbourne storm NRL finals. It was nice to get a cool drink and an ice cream and catch up with all of the footy codes scores.

Mornington AWC

Mornington station is now own by Australian Wildlife Conservation (http://www.australianwildlife.org)

To enter Mornington we first have to use the radio at the gate to call ahead. While on the radio we received a road report for the 1 1 ½ hour drive into Mornington.

Camp grounds were nice with hot showers. The main office has a bar and restaurant where most people gather at the end of the day.

Driving around Mornington was easy with the exception of a creek on the way to Sir John gorge in the north of the park. I had to use low 1^st gear to cross the very rocky dry creek.

Sir John gorge

Spinifex Pigeon

Charnely Station (was Beverly station)

Charnley station looks to be building its self up to attack more tourists which travel the Gibb river road. The facilities were good with hot showers and camp fire drums.

Dillie gorge was a real highlight. Wonderful lagoon which you can fish in and canoe along.

It was getting late when we left Dillie gorge with the sun starting to set. The track was narrow and in the pour light I drove over a brown snake. The snake was large, its tale was on one side of the track and its head was on the other side of the track. On returning to camp we decided that we should park the car some distance from our camp just in case the snake was caught up under the car. It must have looked strange seeing two blokes pull up away from our camp site leave the headlights on jump out of the car then shine torches under the car looking for something.

The next day as we were walking along a track next to a water hole we came across another snake. This time it was a small black snake which just about ran over my foot. I ran one way with my friend ran for hills in the other direction. Well it was the middle of Sept and days were hot.

Small fresh water croc in the top plunge pool at Grevillea gorge

Dillie gorge

Adcock gorge

Adcock gorge is only 5kms off ht e Gibb river road. Information in books and tourist brochures was it was closed. When we drove past a sign said it was open for day use only

Galvans gorge

Galvans gorge is only a 5 minute walk from the Gibb river road. No camping is allowed.

Mt Barnett roadhouse

Just outside Mt Barnett road we came across cattle mustering. Stockmen were on horse and the helicopter was flying in and out of trees lining the creek.

At Mt Barnett road house fuel (diesel and unleaded) and supplies can be purchased. Some repairs to your vehicle can also be made.

Drysdale river station

We arrived at Drysdale station with a plan of only staying one night, travelling to Mitchell falls for one night then back to Drysdale station for another night.

The Mitchell falls road from the Kalumburu was rough and going to be very slow going. We left Drysdale station bright and early making good time along the Kalumburu road and were nearly at the turn off for Mitchell falls road when we noticed the camper trailer was not tracking right. Thinking we had a flat tyre we pulled over only to find the whole wheel and axel had moved. On closer inspection we found the centre bolt had broke or just come loose with all the shaking and 2 leafs of the spring were missing. This had caused the axle to move. I didn’t have a spare spring so we did our best to move the axle back to the correct position, packed the U bolts which held the leaf springs onto the axle with whatever we could so we could get back to Drysdale station. On the way back to Drysdale which was a slow trip we found one of the leaf springs. Now we only needed to find the small bottom spring. We got back to Drysdale station late in the afternoon.

With part of the camper trailer spring in hand we located the Drysdale station mechanic. He said it will only take an hour to fix. With nothing else to do we just waited at the bar while the mechanic worked on our trailer. About an hour later the mechanic comes back with my camper trailer good as new. The mechanic was the manager and owner of Drysdale station. The cost of repairs was only about $130.

We would try again for Mitchell falls but leave the camper trailer at Drysdale station. We thought we could leave Drysdale station early in the morning get to Mitchell falls and back in one day. Unfortunately this didn’t work out either. We crossed King Edward River and headed for Mitchell falls. The Mitchell falls road was very rough and very slow. The 60km was going to take 4 hours one way. Time was against use so we turned around and headed back to King Edward River for lunch.

Sitting around the bar at Drysdale station that night was relaxing until a few shotgun blasts were heard coming from the back of the building which housed the bar. A few minutes later a young woman came out holding a king brown snake by the tail above her head while the head of the snake dragged on the ground, it had to be over 6 feet long. The king brown snake was hiding under the dog kennels.

Fog at Drysdale station camp site

King Edward River

You have to cross King Edward River to reach the Mitchell falls.

King Edward

El Questro

El Questro is a great place. Lots to see and do. You can camp in your own tent, stay in permanent tents, stay in cabins or stay up in the big house which overlooks the Chamberlain gorge.

Heat stress/stroke can strike anyone anytime as we found out. We had “Camelback” water packs, wide brim hates etc and both of us are fairly fit, but with 36 – 38 degrees during the day heat stroke struck on one of our walks through the gorges. Never go walking alone. With no one else around and no means of communicating out we just had to walk out of the gorge we were in. Even with the car air conditioner running as cold as it would go my friend’s temperature would not drop and he could not keep any water down. Not being able to keep water down high body temperature and only a first at kit at El Questro township, it was time to head to Kununurra hospital. At Kununurra Hospital they put a drip in to rehydrate my friend and a few hours later was well enough to be released.

Zebedee springs fantastic place to relax and have a swim. Zebedee springs closes at 12 noon every day.

Chamberlain gorge

El Questro gorge

Fish in El Questro gorge

Moonshine gorge

Sunset at Saddleback lookout

Our camp site at El Questro

Back to Darwin and then to Brisbane

Back tyre went out of shape near Elliott. Had to change the tyre there was a large bulge on the tread side of the tyre. Looks like I broke the steel bands in the tyre while on the Gibb river road.

Statistics

Date	Location	Speedo	Distance travelled	Litres used	Km/L	L/100km	Fuel price/L	Fuel cost
2/09/07	Brisbane	73628		143.21			$1.229	$176.00
3/09/07	Miles	74000	372
3/09/07	Blackall	74671	671	149.37			$1.339	$200.01
4/09/07	Kynuna	75291	620
4/09/07	Mt Isa	75578	287	124.25			$1.159	$144.01
5/09/07	Elliott	76488	910
5/09/07	Daly Waters Highway Inn	76610	122	140.13			$1.570	$220.00
6/09/07	Darwin	77211	601
9/09/07	Darwin	77371	160
10/09/07	Katherine	77698	327	151.14			$1.227	$193.00
13/09/07	Kununurra	78774	1076	143.31			$1.599	$229.15
15/09/07	Bungle Bungle	79282	508
15/09/07	Halls Creek	79553	271	112.49			$1.529	$172.00
17/09/07	Fitzroy crossing	80125	572
19/09/07	Broome	80655	530	33.36			$1.499	$50.00
20/09/07	Broome	80777	122	139.09			$1.499	$208.50
21/09/07	Derby	81018	241	32.47			$1.540	$50.00
22/09/07	Windjana	81242	224
23/09/07	Silent grove/Bell gorge	81435	193
24/09/07	Mornington AWC	81643	208
25/09/07	Charnley Station	81900	257
25/09/07	Mt Barnett Roadhouse	82003	103	59.84			$1.939	$116.00
26/09/07	Drysdale	82175	172
27/09/07	Drysdale (2 Jerry cans)	82374	199	40.00			$1.277	$51.08
27/09/07	Drysdale	82655	281	50.00			$1.980	$99.00
29/09/07	Kununurra	83095	440	152.60			$1.599	$244.01
30/09/07	EL Questro	83216	121
1/10/07	Darwin (1 Jerry can)	84207	991	20.00			$1.277	$25.54
1/10/07	Darwin	84207	0	145.24			$1.377	$200.00
2/10/07	Katherine	84531	324	48.54			$1.339	$65.00
3/10/07	Barkly Homestead	85382	851
3/10/07	Camooweal	85647	265	43.79			$1.599	$70.00
4/10/07	Mt Isa	85840	193	143.42			$1.269	$182.00
4/10/07	Barcaldine	86639	799
4/10/07	Blackall	86720	81	122.39			$1.389	$170.00
5/10/07	Brisbane	87724	1004	136.82			$1.279	$175.00
		14096	14096	1,994.64	7.07	14.15		$3,040.30

Note: 3 Jerry cans were filled at Katherine for the trip to the Kimberley’s.

Service/Repairs to my car and trailer

Car

My Prado was ready for its 80,000kms service when we reached Broome. $500

On returning to Brisbane I took my car in early for a 90,000kms service and check up. $400

Tyre balance & wheel alignment in Darwin before returning to Brisbane. $70

2 new Cooper’s tyres. $540

2 new UFH aerials. $230

2 replacement IPF spotlight covers. $30

Trailer

Repairs at Drysdale station $130

Replaced 7 leaf spring, new disk brake pads and straighten the hitch & manual break coupling. $300

Other bits of information

Imintji, Diesel only, $1.874 per litre.

Heard at Drysdale station unleaded was $2.20/litre at Kalumburu.

We heard when the Gibb River road is closed there is a penalty of $1,000 per tyre if caught. Gibb River road is closed each wet season and when rain falls on the road at other times of the year. Gibb River road was closed for 6 days in June when un-seasonal rain fell.

One couple we met blew two tyres in 20kms.

Another 4WD towing a camper trailer lost control on a corner hitting a tree with the camper. They were arranging for insurance and a tow truck to pick up the camper from Drysdale station.

Saw a newish Patrol on the side of the road. The passenger back mag wheel was broken and had been pushed back into the wheel arch.

4WD hire cars were costing $170/day.